Knots, mooring, anchoring, boat handling and emergency procedures. A practical quick-reference for the skipper and experienced crew.
Eight knots cover 95% of situations on a sailing yacht. Learn them before you leave the marina.
The "king of knots". Creates a fixed loop of any size that holds under load but releases easily. Use for: mooring lines to rings/bollards, rescue line around a person, attaching sheets to sails. Memory aid: "the rabbit comes out of the hole, around the tree, and back down the hole."
The correct method for securing a line to a cleat: one full turn around the base, then figure-of-eight across the horns, finish with a locking half hitch. Do NOT just wrap multiple times — it jams under load. One full turn + two figure-of-eights is plenty for any load.
Fast to tie and easy to adjust. Best use: attaching fenders to rails, quick temporary mooring to a ring or bollard. Weakness: can slip if load direction changes, and can jam solid under sustained heavy load. Not for permanent or safety-critical applications.
Secure, reliable, and adjustable. The round turn takes the initial load while you tie the hitches. Use for: attaching to anchor rings, tying to fender rails, securing dinghies to rings. More secure than clove hitch for sustained loads.
Tied at the end of a sheet or halyard to prevent it running through a block or clutch. Simple: make a loop, pass the end around and back through. Bulky enough to jam. Always tie figure-eights in your sheets before a sail — there is nothing worse than losing a sheet through a block at sea.
"Left over right, right over left." The classic knot for reefing — tying off the reefing pennants around a furled sail. Not suitable for critical applications — it can capsize into a slip knot if pulled from the wrong direction. Never use to join two lines under load or different diameters.
The proper knot for joining two ropes of unequal thickness. Form a bight in the thicker rope, pass the thinner rope through the bight, around behind both parts of the thicker rope, and tuck under itself. Double sheet bend (two wraps of the thinner line) for very different diameters or slippery rope.
The knot you need when you have to attach to a loaded line without releasing it — e.g. taking a sheet to a winch when it is jammed under load, or attaching a preventer. Two round turns in the direction of load, then one turn on the other side, finish with a half hitch. The two turns must be toward the direction of pull.
The standard mooring technique in the Mediterranean. You anchor and back the stern to the quay, securing with stern lines and anchor chain/warp to hold you off.
Preparation before approach:
| Rode Type | Minimum Scope | Rough Weather |
|---|---|---|
| All chain | 3:1 (calm), 5:1 (normal) | 7:1 |
| Chain + rope | 5:1 (normal) | 8:1 |
| All rope | 7:1 minimum | 10:1 |
Scope = total rode out ÷ depth at anchor (add freeboard of bow to depth reading). Example: 5m depth + 2m freeboard = 7m. At 5:1 = 35m of chain.
Many Greek anchorages and dive sites have mooring buoys. Always check the buoy's rating and condition before relying on it.
Preparation: fenders at correct height for the pontoon, bow and stern lines ready with enough length, spring lines prepared. Identify cleats on the pontoon.
Approach principles:
Spring line technique in tight marinas: If wind is blowing you off the pontoon, secure the bow spring, then apply gentle forward engine with helm toward the pontoon — prop wash pushes the stern in against the spring. Very effective for a single-screw boat.
Propeller walk (twin or single screw): Single right-handed prop in reverse pulls the stern to port. Use this — come alongside starboard-to, and in reverse the stern pulls neatly to the pontoon. Going in port-to may require more anticipation.
Spring-off technique: If wind or current holds you against the pontoon and prevents you simply motoring away:
Wind and current: Let them work for you — identify which way they will take the bow when you cast off. Use the free-swinging bow to your advantage. Never fight wind with engine alone if you can use wind and spring to pre-set the angle.
When to reef: Before you think you need to. If you're wondering whether to reef, the answer is yes. It is always faster to shake out a reef in lighter wind than to reef in rising conditions. For a Bavaria C42: consider first reef at Force 4–5 apparent (16–20 kn) with inexperienced crew, Force 5–6 (20–25 kn) with experienced crew.
The Quick Stop is the recommended method for short-handed or cruising yachts because it keeps the MOB in sight and the boat close. Practice this — never assume you will remember it under stress.
Whether receiving or giving a tow, the principles are the same: slow speed, even tension, good communication.
Anchoring overnight is one of the great pleasures of sailing — and one of the great responsibilities. A dragging anchor in the dark in a crowded anchorage is a serious emergency.